Second-Hand Guitars: Common Faults, Repair Costs & Are They Really Worth It?

Buying a second-hand guitar is one of the most tempting moves in music. You can often pick up a guitar that would cost £400 new for £150 on eBay, Gumtree, or Facebook Marketplace. But is that bargain really a bargain? Or are you buying someone else's problems?

In this guide we break down the most common faults found on used guitars, what they cost to fix — whether you DIY or go to a professional luthier — and give you an honest verdict on whether buying second-hand is actually worth it.

Common Faults on Second-Hand Guitars

Most used guitars will have at least one of the following issues. Some are trivial; others are deal-breakers.

1. Fret Wear & Fret Buzz

Heavy playing wears grooves into frets over time, causing notes to buzz or die out. Mild wear is cosmetic; deep grooves affect playability significantly. A full fret level and crown is one of the most common repairs on used guitars.

2. Truss Rod Issues

The truss rod controls neck relief (the slight bow in the neck). A neck that's too bowed or back-bowed makes the guitar very hard to play. Most truss rods are adjustable, but a seized or broken truss rod is a serious — and expensive — problem. DIY set-up attempts often damage the truss rod, if not the neck, beyond use.

3. Worn Nut & Saddle

The nut (at the headstock) and saddle (at the bridge) wear down over time, causing open strings to buzz or go out of tune. These are cheap parts but fiddly to fit correctly. Browse our Guitar Nuts, Bridges & Tail Pieces collection for replacement blanks.

4. Tuning Machine Problems

Worn or loose tuning pegs slip under string tension, making the guitar impossible to keep in tune. Sometimes a simple tighten-up fixes it; other times the machines need replacing entirely. See our Guitar Machine Tuning Heads collection for a range of direct replacements.

5. Electronics Issues (Electric Guitars)

Scratchy pots (volume/tone knobs), crackling switches, and dead pickups are extremely common on older electrics. Pots and switches are cheap; pickups less so. If you need a pickup swap, browse our Electric Guitar Pickups collection.

6. Lifted or Cracked Bridge

On acoustic guitars, the bridge can lift away from the top due to over-tuning, humidity changes or poor gluing. Left unchecked, this can cause the top to crack. It's a repair that must be done properly.

7. Finish Damage & Cracks

Dings and buckle rash are cosmetic and rarely affect tone. However, cracks in the body or neck — especially structural cracks such as at the heel — are a different matter entirely.

8. Warped or Twisted Neck

A twisted neck (where the bass side and treble side have different relief) is one of the worst faults a guitar can have. It often cannot be corrected without a neck reset or replacement. If a neck replacement is on the cards, see our Guitar Bodies & Necks collection.

9. Strap Button & Output Jack Issues

Loose strap buttons and intermittent output jacks are minor but annoying. Both are easy DIY fixes.

DIY vs Professional Repair Costs

Here's a realistic breakdown of what common repairs cost in the UK, whether you do it yourself or take it to a luthier.

Fault	DIY Parts Cost	Professional Cost (inc. labour)
Fret level, crown & polish	£15–£30 (tools + consumables)	£60–£120
Full refret	£20–£50 (fret wire + tools)	£150–£350+
Truss rod adjustment	Free (just a hex key)	£20–£40 (as part of a setup)
Nut replacement	£5–£15 (bone/TUSQ blank)	£40–£80
Saddle replacement (acoustic)	£5–£15	£30–£60
Tuning machine replacement (set)	£15–£60 (parts)	£50–£100
Pot/switch replacement	£5–£20	£30–£70
Pickup replacement (per pickup)	£30–£150+ (parts)	£60–£200+
Bridge reglue (acoustic)	£5–£10 (hide glue)	£80–£150
Neck reset (acoustic)	Not recommended as DIY	£150–£300+
Crack repair (structural)	Not recommended as DIY	£100–£400+
Full setup (action, intonation, etc.)	Free (your time)	£40–£80

Prices are approximate UK market rates as of 2026. Luthier rates vary significantly by region — London and major cities tend to be at the higher end.

Hidden Costs That Add Up

Here's where second-hand buying can catch you out. A guitar might need:

• A full setup (£40–£80)
• A new nut (£40–£80)
• Fret levelling (£60–£120)
• New tuners (£50–£100)

That's potentially £190–£380 on top of the purchase price — before you've even played a gig. On a guitar you bought for £150, that's a painful realisation.

The key lesson: always factor in the cost of getting the guitar into playable condition, not just the sticker price.

Then compare it to the cost of a brand new instrument. You will be surprised.

If you do decide to tackle repairs yourself, browse our Guitar Parts: Spares & Repairs collection for nuts, saddles, tuning machines, pots, switches, and more.

So Is It Actually Worth Buying Second-Hand?

The honest answer: it depends on three things — what you're buying, what condition it's in, and what you can do yourself.

If you can do the work yourself…

The maths can work strongly in your favour. A guitar with fret wear, a scratchy pot, and a worn nut might put off most buyers — but if you can sort all three for £30 in parts and an afternoon's work, you've potentially picked up a great instrument at a fraction of its value. This is where experienced players and hobbyist luthiers genuinely win. If you're on the lookout for a project, browse our Project Guitars collection for instruments ready to be brought back to life.

If you can't do the work yourself…

Be very cautious. Labour costs can quickly erode — or completely eliminate — any saving over buying new. A new guitar also comes with a warranty, fresh strings, and the peace of mind that nothing is hiding under the surface.

The deal-breakers to walk away from

• Twisted or severely warped neck
• Broken or seized truss rod
• Structural cracks in the body or neck joint
• A neck reset needed on a cheap acoustic (repair cost often exceeds guitar value)

Top Tips for Buying Second-Hand

• Play it before you buy it. Never buy blind from a photo if you can avoid it.
• Check the neck carefully. Sight down it from the headstock. It should be straight or have a very slight bow — not twisted.
• Fret every note on every string. Listen for buzzing or dead notes.
• Test all the electronics (on electrics). Every pickup position, every pot, the output jack.
• Look at the neck joint. Any gaps or cracks here can be serious.
• Check the bridge on acoustics. Run your fingernail around the edge — it should be flush to the top.
• Ask why they're selling it. "Upgrading" is a good sign. "It needs a bit of work" is a red flag.
• Budget for a setup. Even a good second-hand guitar will benefit from a professional setup.

The Verdict

Second-hand guitars can be outstanding value — but only if you go in with your eyes open. The best deals go to players who know what they're looking at, can spot the faults, and have the skills (or the budget) to address them. If you're unsure, bring someone who knows guitars, or ask a trusted local luthier to inspect it for you before you commit.

At Music Bits, we're always happy to advise on what to look for when buying used — and if you do pick up a project guitar, browse our Guitar Parts: Spares & Repairs collection to get it singing again.